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treatment
Recommended tank volume: —
Core numbers for matching this unit to your tank and electrical plan.
Follow the manufacturer schedule for seals, impellers, media, and other consumables.
Most aquarium antifungal bottles are aimed at Saprolegnia, the cotton-wool growth that shows up on damaged skin, torn fins and dead eggs. It is worth knowing before you dose that Saprolegnia is not a fungus. The Merck Veterinary Manual groups it with Aphanomyces as a water mould in the Oomycota, a lineage lumped in with fungi historically because the two look alike and live alike, not because they are related. Merck makes the point that the distinction is practical: knowing the biology of each group is what leads to targeted treatment rather than guesswork. The second point in that entry is more useful than most product labels. External Saprolegnia infections often need changes to handling and to the environment on top of any chemical treatment, and systemic fungal infections in fish generally respond poorly to treatment at all. In practice a fish that has gone fuzzy was usually injured, chilled, crowded or sitting in bad water first, and the mould is the opportunist that followed. Dosing the tank without fixing the cause buys a relapse. On chemistry, Merck notes that specific commercial formalin and hydrogen peroxide products are FDA approved against fungus on fish eggs, and that using them on other life stages is extra-label and requires veterinary oversight. Shop bottles sold for ornamental fish are usually built around dyes such as malachite green or methylene blue; the label on the bottle is the dosing authority, not this page. Before you reach for it, check temperature, ammonia and nitrite, and move the affected fish to a hospital tank if you have one, since several of these treatments stain silicone and harm invertebrates.
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